Items used:
Let
me start by saying Guy from Linden
Hill Imports is a great source of information for Russian aircraft and
gets merchandise to you amazingly fast. The cockpit set by NeoMega
was an absolute gem to work with. No sanding or cutting whatsoever, just
amazing crisp detail right out of the box. I really can't figure out why
the other companies just don't make these tubs fit into the kits rather
than having us sand, grind and get resin particles inside our lungs!
The set included the cockpit tub, front and side panels and K-36DM
ejection seat.
It's the best one I've seen
so far. The image I attached is of NeoMega's SU-27UB cockpit set, another
flanker project of mine but it gives you the idea of what it looks like
OOB. |
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I started by
airbrushing the tub, front and side panels flanker blue by Model Master. I
lightened it just a slight bit to contrast the knobs and switches. The LCD's and
readouts were painted gloss black with a fine brush and I dabbed a drop of
future on each readout when dried. The entire cockpit took about 5 days or so,
putting in an hour here and there.
The cockpit
attached to the underside of the top half with no effort at all. There is
a lower rear portion that had to be sanded on an angle to allow the lower
half to properly meet the top portion, this took all but 1 minute.
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The Academy kit is
great with the exception of the missiles. They aren't accurate at all. Their are
a couple of companies that provide missiles for the Flanker and MiG aircraft but
not to many. It's much easier getting weapons for our Tomcat or Strike Eagle.
The kit really didn't require that much sanding at all. A few spots here and
there but nothing major.
I really liked
the way the kit is built where you have two large pieces, top and bottom.
After sanding was complete, I airbrushed a coat of grey primer, waited a
few days then airbrushed the entire model Flanker blue. I deviated
slightly from the standard flanker theme and added some gray to the
aircraft, then went on to finish the camo in Flanker medium blue. It gets
a little tricky here because the Model Masters Flanker Med. blue is to
dark and it must be toned down. I mixed a little bit of gray-white with it
and practiced on an older model. I did the tail fins as separate pieces
and attached them at the very end. I'm glad I did it this way because the
starboard fin needs some taping on the inside and out. |
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I used Yefim
Gordons "Flankers The New Generation" for reference. Good
publication, it shows early prototypes and several different types of
weapons that I've never seen before. Pretty cool book. |
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I used model
master metalizer burnt metal for the engines and burnt iron for the
exhaust nozzles. |
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Work is
needed on the front landing gear lights. The kit doesn't include anything,
your on your own with this. Your provided with two flat pieces of plastic
for the lens housing. My man Doug Shey from Warrick Hobbies showed
me a cool trick where you mix apoxy cement, drop it in the spot where you
want and its like concrete within a few hours. Because its so thick, it
lays just right and takes the form of a lens. I drilled out the plastic
piece in a semi-circular sphere as told by Kaan Gok, painted the inside
chrome silver then added the apoxy. Thanks to Doug & Kaan. |
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I used
Linden Hills Flankers on Patrol decals, and they were beautiful. A perfect
set of directions in the form of a small packet accompanies these vivid
decals.
Weathering was kept to a
minimum. I accented the panel lines with pastel chalk by mixing with water
and a little dishwashing detergent. After painting was complete, I applied
a clear coat over the model to prepare it for decaling and weathering. I
brushed in all the panel lines, waited a half hour or so then wiped off
the excess. It came out ok, but looked much to dirty. Would have looked awesome
on an F-14 but not an SU-27. SO, I wiped off most of the weathering
leaving just so much as to see some panel lines. I added some brush
strokes to the wing and elevator flaps, and other areas where oil and fuel
would blow off. |
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Like most kits,
there is a big seam running down the middle of the canopy that must be removed.
I sanded it using an extra fine sanding stick. If any of you guys do this, don't
panic after you see all the buff marks you put on that crystal clear canopy. I
put a little polish on it and rubbed it for about five minutes or so and it
looked great.
This is my last project for a while. I live in South Florida and do this
out of my garage. It is really hot down here now! Working in the garage in this
heat and humidity really makes me want to live in an igloo.
So I'll probably start up again in late Sept. or early Oct., whichever
cools first. I have an F-14D, F-15E and SU27UB kits sitting in my closet
waiting.
I hope you enjoyed
this article, any questions please feel free to contact me.
E.J.
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